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  1. Bikes exist with motors that are activated by pedaling. The bike share program in Madrid uses these bikes. You feel like you have a super power as each effort shoots you forward much faster than it should. I would love to have one of these to pedal around at home (if I had a home.)
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  2. Spain has the third most tourists in the world.
  3. Finland is terrible at soccer.
  4. I can walk 25 km (15.5 miles) comfortably, and then walking any further becomes hellish. I learned this by walking 36 km (22 miles) with a group that was starting the Camino a Santiago Compostela in Madrid. Most were walking 100 km (62 miles) in 24 hours.
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  5. Countries with a small minority population of native foreign language speakers are willing to accommodate them, even beyond the point of reasonableness. Countries with a large minority population of native foreign language speakers try to curtail the second language’s use. Compare Finland putting every road sign in Swedish for the 5% of people who speak it as a first language versus Latvia, where 34% of people speak Russian at home requiring schools to teach at least 60% of subjects in Latvian and planning to ban Russian as a language of instruction by 2018. (I realize there’s more to these issues than how I’ve presented them.)
  6. On August 23, 1989, a 675 km (420 miles) human chain of 2 million people ran from Vilnius, Lithuania to Tallinn, Estonia. The protesters wanted independence from the Soviet Union.
  7. Finnish, Estonian, and Hungarian are part of the Finno-Urgic branch of the Uralic language family. Latvian and Lithuanian are Baltic languages that are part of the Balto-Slavic languages of most of Eastern Europe including Russian. Romanian is a Romance language like Spanish and French. Look at a map and try to make sense of that!
  8. In the 15th century, Lithuania was the largest country in Europe.

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    Trakai Castle, Lithuania
  9. Written Serbian is a very rare example of synchronic digraphia, ie when a language has two writing systems at the same time. I saw about 50% usage of the Serbian cyrillic alphabet and 50% usage of the Roman alphabet when I was in Belgrade.
  10. Americans are not the only ones who use fake boats. Most nightlife in Belgrade, Serbia during the summer is on splavovi, which are rafts docked to the Sava and Danube Rivers that look like boats.
  11. I look dumb enough–but I’m not–to pay $30 for a 2.5 mile taxi ride.
  12. The Ottoman Empire stretched much further into Europe, and much more recently, than I realized.
  13. There are majority Muslim countries in Europe other than Turkey.
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  14. In the early 20th century, The First Balkan War kicked the Ottoman Empire out of Europe. Bulgaria started the Second Balkan War because it was upset about not getting enough new territory after the First Balkan War. Ironically Bulgaria lost territory during the Second Balkan War.
  15. Romania started World War II neutral, joined Germany as an Axis Power, was invaded by the Soviet Union, and finally joined the Allies after a coup. Despite being a big help to the Allies in the end, Romania was not mentioned as a co-belligerent at the 1947 Treaty of Paris and ended up losing quite a bit of territory.
  16. Ceaușescu’s bungled final speech and even more bungled attempt to flee were a fantastically fitting end to his reign. Romania’s entire 1989 revolution is fascinating.
  17. The Wikipedia article glosses over the days after the Romanian Revolution, but they’re definitely the strangest part: “On 24 December, Bucharest was a city at war. Tanks, APCs and trucks continued to patrol the city and surround trouble spots in order to protect them. At intersections near strategic objectives, roadblocks were built; automatic gunfire continued in and around University Square, the Gara de Nord (the city’s main railroad station) and Palace Square. Yet amid the chaos, some people were seen clutching makeshift Christmas trees. ‘Terrorist activities’ continued until 27 December, when they abruptly stopped. Nobody ever found out who conducted them, or who ordered their termination.” [emphasis mine] A woman one year older than me told me her first memories are running through the city with her parents during the revolution trying to get to a safe apartment, and playing in the apartment of her uncle and picking up bullets that had gotten into the apartment. Two young Romanians echoed to me the comments that “no one knows” who the “terrorists” were that were fighting for those few days or why they stopped.
  18. Romanians are SO proud to be in the European Union. You rarely see a Romanian flag that is not flying next to an EU flag. Exception: Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in Carol Park in Bucharest.


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About 1 AM today, my friend and I hopped in a taxi outside a well known nightlife area in Belgrade, Serbia and were the almost-victims of a taxi scam.

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Sava and Danube Rivers Meeting in Belgrade

We were just taking a 4 km ride to another bar, and we hopped into one of several waiting taxis. The ride took under 10 minutes, with part of it at over 80 miles per hour as our taxi driver barreled down empty streets.

Late in the ride, I noticed the meter was over 2,000 dinar (110 dinar = $1.) That was ludicrous since the ride should cost around 400-500 dinar tops.

The meter had started at 170 dinar correctly and was ticking up in 3 dinar increments correctly, but it was ticking up about 10 times faster than normal.

When we arrived the meter was 3,050 dinar ($28.) I got out of the cab. I don’t want to get into an argument and be trapped in the car or within arm’s reach of the driver. My friend pulled out his wallet, sitting in the cab. I barked at him: “Get out of the cab.”

Through the window, I said: “How much?” And the driver said, “Three thousand dinar,” to which I burst out laughing.

Me: “You mean 300?”

Him: “3,000”

Then he said some nonsense about different prices for pink taxis, phone taxis, and his taxi that I didn’t understand because of his limited English.

At this point, I was 100% sure that 3,000 was an unfair price, but I wasn’t 100% sure that it was an illegal price. In some cities, taximeters can charge whatever they want (Charlottesville, Virginia) though everywhere I’ve been prices need to be posted somewhere, and they weren’t posted in this cab.

I decided to tell him flat out that I wasn’t paying 3,000 dinar and to call the police. I figured the worst that could happen–if the price was legal–was that a cop would tell me to pay the $28, an annoying, but hardly life-changing scam amount. In the best case, the cabbie was breaking the law and would back down.

The cabbie countered that I should get back in, and he’d drive us the two minutes to the police to sort this out.

Yeah, right!

I wasn’t getting back in the taxi, so I told him again to call the police if he wanted 3,000. We were going to get a beer. We walked over to an outdoor bar a few meters away and ordered a beer. The taxi driver “made a phone call” (possibly fake) in Serbian and walked over to tell us the police would be there in 15 minutes.

“Great, we’ll be right here drinking our beer.”

Not two minutes later, the cabbie drove the 20 meters to where we were made some offensive hand gestures, cussed us out in Serbian (I assume) and then reversed down the street.

Free taxi ride for us!

Draw your own lessons from the episode. I’m still going to take street taxis in Belgrade, and just dispute the fare if it’s outrageous. On our ride home later in the night, my friend was watching the meter like a hawk, and I joked, “I hope it’s too high. Another free ride.”

At least in Bucharest, my next stop, I’ll thankfully be freed from taxi tyranny and get to use Uber. (Check out this attempted Uber scam I foiled.)

Bottom Line

I’d like to say this shows that cheaters never prosper, but it shows the opposite.

If the ride should have been 400, and he gets even 2 out of 15 people (13%) to pay 3,000 he breaks even. I imagine he gets a much higher percentage of foreigners to pay the scam rate than 13%.

What travel scams have you encountered and how have you handled them?

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I spent the last month traveling from Helsinki to Tallinn by ferry and from Tallinn to Riga to Vilnius by bus, spending about a week each in the capitals of Finland, Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania. Ferries and buses are cheap, easy to book, and very comfortable in this beautiful part of Europe.

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Ferry from Helsinki to Tallinn

Ferries are the easiest way to get between Finland’s and Estonia’s capitals, which are just 80 km apart across the Gulf of Finland. Several companies have daily ferries you can book online that take 1:40 to 2:30 and connect city center to city center.

Sites like this one aggregate several (all?) of the options for ferries between Tallinn and Helsinki. I chose Linda Line because it is one of the fast ferries at 1 hour 40 minutes, and it had the departure time closest to when I wanted to leave.

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Linda Line is not the cheapest at 31.50 euros ($35) each way, and if you’re very price sensitive, you can book a late night, slower ferry for 25 euros ($28) each way from Viking Line.

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My Linda Line ferry was very nice. Boarding was quick, and the ship was probably only about 1/4 full, so everyone had as much space as he wanted. I’m not sure the baggage allowance, but I brought on one 44 pound bag I would check on an airplane, one 20 pound carry on sized backpack, and one laptop bag without issue.

During the ferry, I had meatballs and mashed potatoes–so Finnish!–for lunch, and it was delicious.

The terminals in Helsinki and Tallinn, were each about 1 km from my apartments in those cities, and I walked in both cases.

There is no immigration or customs on either end as both countries are in the Schengen Area.

Tallinn to Riga to Vilnius by Bus

Buses are the easiest way to travel between Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania’s major cities.

Lux Express has several daily buses between the capitals and major cities. Lux Express buses have free wifi, and in some cases video monitors at each seat.

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Tallinn to Riga and Riga to Vilnius are each just over four hours.

For Tallinn to Riga, I paid 23 euros ($26) on a bus with standard 2-2 seating. The bus was only about half full, so I ended up moving back to get my own row of two seats to myself.

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For Riga to Vilnius, I had the chance to upgrade to Lux Express Lounge seating for 7 euros, which I did.Screen Shot 2015-07-12 at 3.32.07 PM

Lux Express Lounge seating is 1-1 with a video monitor at every seat and more leg room. For $30 total, I thought this was a pretty outrageously good deal. I highly recommend upgrading to Lounge seating if your bus offers it.

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Lux Express buses are clean, on time, and comfortable. Again I’m not sure the baggage allowance, but I put my 44 pound bag I would check on an airplane and 20 pound carry on sized backpack in the storage hold of the bus and just carried on my one laptop bag.

I passed both bus rides with free wifi and views of the verdant countryside. On my second bus ride, there was even a selection of movies and TV shows I could watch on demand.

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Headphones at my Lux Express Lounge Seat

Lux Express stops at several places in each city. For instance, in Riga, these are possible stops.

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Instead of mindlessly selecting to go from bus terminal to bus terminal, take a look at whether an alternative stop is closer to your lodging. On both my rides, I got on at the bus stations and got off at stops before the next city’s bus station.

Best Way to Buy the Ferry/Bus Ticket

I bought my tickets with the Citi ThankYou® Premier Card, which offers 3x on all travel and gas purchases. Ferry and bus rides certainly count in the 3x travel category. The card comes with 50,000 bonus points after spending $3,000 in the first three months.

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The card has no foreign transaction fees, so it is ideal for foreign travel purchases.

Bottom Line

The Baltic capitals are very close to each other with convenient and cheap non-air transportation options. Next time you’re in this part of the world, catch a comfortable ferry or bus from one city to the next as you take in a beautiful part of Europe.

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Earn 50,000 bonus points (worth $800 in American Airlines flights) after spending $3,000 in the first three months on the Citi Prestige® Card. Plus get an additional $500 in free airfare on any airline in the first 12 months plus free airport lounge access worldwide for only a $450 annual fee. Why I got the card.


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Almost every time I fly, I get free lounge access one of three ways:

  1. International Business and First Class passengers get lounge access throughout the journey, and I fly a lot of international premium cabin awards.
  2. Every time I fly American Airlines or US Airways, I get American Airlines Admirals Club lounge access (plus free guest access for companions) from my Citi Prestige® Card.
  3. Most airports have one or more lounges affiliated with Priority Pass. I have a free Priority Pass membership from my Citi Prestige® Card.

See also Complete Guide to Citi Prestige Lounge Access and All the Lounge Access I Got from Citi Prestige on One Trip

Today I am in Vilnius, Lithuania flying an economy ticket, so the first two ways do not get me lounge access. But like almost every airport I use, there is a Priority Pass affiliated lounge here: the IDW Esperanza Resort Business Lounge.

Priority Pass lounges vary widely in quality, but all of them have internet, comfortable places to sit, and refreshments. Most have alcohol and enough food to cobble together a meal. And some are just awesome.

How to Find a Priority Pass Lounge

Download the Priority Pass app. Search by city, country, or airport. In Vilnius, there is only one Priority Pass lounge. In some airports, there are several.

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Click on a lounge to find its location and offerings.

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Review of IDW Esperanza Resort Business Class Lounge

This feels like the median Priority Pass lounge. It has the basics, some food, some booze, some nice chairs, and solid wifi. Only one thing stands out to me: I actually really like the decor. Overall I’m very satisfied with my free visit, and I would have paid around $20 for access.

The leather chairs and sofas are comfortable, and the space feels more private with the plants separating sections.

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There is a modest spread of juices…

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…chips, crackers, and nuts…
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…sodas, waters, beers, liquors, and wines…Screen Shot 2015-07-10 at 1.12.03 PM

…sandwiches, cheese, and yogurt…

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…fruit and sweets…

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…and liquors.

I had a lunch of two half chicken sandwiches, almonds, crackers, Gouda cheese, and water.

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I hung out in a comfortable chair for an hour and a half working.
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The lounge also has computers with a printer and an espresso/cappuccino machine.

There’s nothing fancy here like showers or massages or a la carte dining that you’d find in the top First Class lounges, but the offerings are sufficient for a short trip and a simple meal. There’s nothing more I can ask for in a free lounge visit.

Priority Pass Membership

You can buy a Priority Pass membership for $99 a year + $27 a visit or $399 per year with unlimited visits. Unfortunately neither plan includes free guest access.

Far better is to get a Priority Pass membership for free with a premium credit card. The best deal is with the Citi Prestige® Card. The Priority Pass Select membership card is shipped to you automatically when you open a Citi Prestige® Card.

With the Priority Pass Select membership from the Prestige, you can access all Priority Pass lounges except United Clubs. Your visits are free. Each visit, you can take in two guests for free OR your spouse and all children under 18 for free.

If you liked this post, sign up to receive one free daily email every morning with all of the day’s posts! You can also follow MileValue on Twitter and Facebook.

Earn 50,000 bonus points (worth $800 in American Airlines flights) after spending $3,000 in the first three months on the Citi Prestige® Card. Plus get an additional $500 in free airfare on any airline in the first 12 months plus free airport lounge access worldwide for only a $450 annual fee. Why I got the card.

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I just spent a completely legal week in Cuba, split between Havana and Viñales. An American in Cuba in 2015 is a six part series on the trip. This post will focus on my three days in Viñales.

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Sunset Over Viñales, Cuba

Other Posts


Viñales is a tourist town in the middle of a tobacco growing valley dotted with spectacular rock outcroppings known as mogotes and amazing caves to explore.

I spent three days in Viñales walking, spelunking, swimming, scooter-ing, dancing, and mojito-ing.

Day 1: Leisurely Organized Walk

I arrived in Viñales about about noon and headed first to a restaurant that the Cuba Lonely Planet gushes about: El Olivo, a Mediterranean spot.

I got the patatas bravas and three-meat cannelloni.

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The food was fine. It was a bit more complex than food from my casa but no better. I later sampled a few other restaurants on the main drag, and none stood out. They were all 10 CUC or less for a meal and offered OK food.

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After lunch, I set about finding a casa particular to spend three nights. In Viñales, this couldn’t be easier. Literally every house I saw was renting rooms. I popped into one that looked fine, but the owner said the room was rented already and suggested her friend a block away. I headed there, looked into the detached room, negotiated the price down from 20 CUC to 18 CUC and plopped my bags down.

I walked into a tour office at the main square and inquired about hikes that afternoon. I was expecting a challenging, up-and-down hike that would make me break a sweat.

Instead the three hour walk that afternoon was more like a leisurely stroll. It was lovely, just not what I was anticipating.

We basically just walked out of the small village and immediately hit fields. Can you spot the pineapple?Screen Shot 2015-06-20 at 10.22.13 AM

While Viñales itself is a town that must be more affluent than average from all the CUC coming in at casas particulares, just outside of town, you can see families more representative of rural Cubans, like this grandpa and grandson riding an emaciated horse.
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Early on in the walk, we made two stops intended to earn the guide a little extra cash. The first was at a tiny “bar” to offer us a drink. Similar structures dot the countryside, so I assume tourists are being herded into them for 15 minutes on a variety of tours. There was no pressure, and I just sat there drinking the water I had carried.
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Then we stopped at a tobacco warehouse where leaves were being dried and got a short presentation on cigar rolling.Screen Shot 2015-06-20 at 10.22.34 AMScreen Shot 2015-06-20 at 10.22.40 AMScreen Shot 2015-06-20 at 10.22.47 AM

We were each given a free cigar and then offered the chance to buy cigars. Again, no pressure.Screen Shot 2015-06-20 at 10.22.54 AM

From there we walked to a few caves and a pond to swim.Screen Shot 2015-06-20 at 10.23.27 AMScreen Shot 2015-06-20 at 10.23.34 AM

Finally, we went to a house with a beautiful view of sunset over the mogotes.
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Day 2: Another Leisurely Organized Walk

The next day, I took another 10 CUC walking tour that was similar but covered different areas.

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We walked down dusty paths past small houses and family farms.Screen Shot 2015-06-20 at 10.24.53 AMScreen Shot 2015-06-20 at 10.25.04 AM

We saw the biggest land mammal in Cuba, this delightful tree rat.Screen Shot 2015-06-20 at 10.25.16 AM

We saw plowing…Screen Shot 2015-06-20 at 10.25.29 AMScreen Shot 2015-06-20 at 10.25.42 AM

…super skinny horses…Screen Shot 2015-06-20 at 10.25.52 AM

…and farmers going about their routine.Screen Shot 2015-06-20 at 10.26.02 AM

We got back in time for lunch, so I popped into the first restaurant where I saw ropa vieja on the menu, the dish I most associate with Cuban food.

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It was 6 CUC and, again, fine, but not anything spectacular.

That night, I went to Centro Cultural Polo Montañez, which is right on the town’s plaza. It feature a live show nightly, mostly music with some dancing interludes. Cover is 1 CUC.
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During the music, patrons are encouraged to get up and salsa. Any girls sitting and watching will be invited to dance by the local guys who hang out around the place.

Polo Montañez seemed to draw about 100 people every night, starting at about 10 PM.

There is only one other place in town with live music, Patio del Decimista, on the main drag, but it doesn’t have the dance floor that Polo Montañez has. Patio de Decimista draws maybe 40 people, starting earlier in the evening.

Day 3: Moped Rental

I rented a scooter for the day for the exorbitant cost of around 30 CUC (they’re about half that in Southeast Asia) from a rental place at the same location as Restaurante la Casa de Don Tomás, Salvador Cisneros No 140.

The scooter was a really fun way to explore Viñales because some of its interesting sites and caves are 10 km outside of town.

First I scooted west of town on a paved road toward the Gran Caverna de Santo Tomás. I was in no hurry, so I pulled off to follow a dirt trail to a promised view point, which was lovely.

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I passed the Mural del Prehistoria, which was a 120 meter long painting with a huge snail, dinosaurs, sea monsters, and humans that symbolized evolution. I’m as confused as you are.

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Finally I got to the Gran Caverna de Santo Tomás where I paid 10 CUC to go on a 90-minute group tour of the second largest cave in the Americas.
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This was a highlight of my time in Cuba.Screen Shot 2015-06-20 at 10.27.49 AMScreen Shot 2015-06-20 at 10.27.56 AMScreen Shot 2015-06-20 at 10.28.04 AMScreen Shot 2015-06-20 at 10.28.11 AM

After the Gran Caverna de Santo Tomás, I went east back past Viñales to check out other caves. I really wanted to see Cueva del Indio where you ride in a boat on the underground river. I paid my entry fee and walked into the cave, but a tour guide in front of me said that the line was probably 40 minutes to get to the 10 minute boat ride, so I just left. Get to Cueva del Indio early in the day to beat tour buses.

Finally I just blasted through the countryside for an hour on the scooter, following road signs to any towns mentioned. It was a fun way to see parts of Cuba mostly unseen by tourists and to see Cubans going about their daily lives.

That afternoon, I used the internet at the ETECSA office in Viñales. More on internet usage in Cuba in this post.

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The wifi works on the front steps 24 hours even though you can only buy the scratch off internet cards during the day. I found that having an extra one with me at all times was nice if I wanted to check email at night.

Getting To/From Viñales

I took a Viazul bus from Havana. Here’s more information on Viazul buses and other transportation options in Cuba.

Bottom Line

I definitely think any trip to Cuba should include Havana and not-Havana, but I can’t say with any certainty that Viñales is the most interesting not-Havana on the island. I can say that I really enjoyed Viñales. It’s close enough to Havana to justify a two or three day trip to see the countryside, caves, and tobacco farms. The city has tons of casa particulares to stay in, a great place to salsa dance, and lots of easy walking tours.

If you liked this post, sign up to receive one free daily email every morning with all of the day’s posts! You can also follow MileValue on Twitter and Facebook.

Earn 50,000 bonus points (worth $800 in American Airlines flights) after spending $3,000 in the first three months on the Citi Prestige® Card. Plus get an additional $500 in free airfare on any airline in the first 12 months plus free airport lounge access worldwide for only a $450 annual fee. Why I got the card.

I earn a commission for some links on this blog. Citi is a MileValue partner.

I just spent a completely legal week in Cuba, split between Havana and Viñales. An American in Cuba in 2015 is a six part series on the trip. This post will focus on things I wish I’d known about lodging and transportation in Cuba before going

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Full Series


I got around with taxis, shared taxis, buses, a scooter, and my own two feet. You can also rent a bike or car.


Don’t catch them in front of a hotel or where they are pooled waiting for tourists unless you want to pay extra. Flag one down on the street and then negotiate.

Yes, some taxis have taximeters, but the drivers don’t seem willing to use them. Or more accurately, they use them after negotiating with you, and then charge you the negotiated price, not the metered price.

Outside of hotels and at tourist sites where the queue can be 10-20 deep waiting a few hours to bilk one sucker. I don’t want to be that sucker. Use your own judgment on what to pay or try to negotiate with a few taxis to get an idea of the price.

I often walked from Vedado to Havana Vieja and then caught a taxi a few kilometers back home. That would run me 4 CUC. A trip to the airport from Vedado ran me 15 CUC.

I had one taxi driver rip me off. I had said I wanted to pay 4 CUC. He said 5 CUC. I told him I was only willing to pay 4 CUC, and he nodded, so I got in. When we arrived and I handed him 5 CUC, he handed back no change. I said, “We agreed to 4 CUC.” He said, “I never said that,” which was technically true. I decided to avoid a big scene over 1 CUC and got out, telling him he was a scammer.

Shared Taxis, “máquinas”

These are basically buses disguised as taxis that run a fixed or mostly fixed route down main streets. You flag the car down going the direction you want, tell him where you’re going, and he tells you whether he can get you there or close. I paid 1 CUC each trip, but you should confirm the price before getting in since you’re a gringo.

These were really fun because you are almost guaranteed to be jammed into a car with 5-6 passengers, and you’re the only gringo. I enjoyed joking around with the other passengers.

Your drop off might be a short walk from your destination, and you will have to stop to pick up and drop off other passengers, so this option is strictly for fun and a little money saving, not convenience.


Intercity buses from Viazul are really well run: professional, clean, on time, and full of other tourists. I used Viazul buses to go from Havana to Viñales and back.

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I booked my Viazul bus tickets online before going to Cuba with a MasterCard. The email you get says that you must print out your attached proof of purchase.

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I thought that was unlikely to be enforced, but I printed it out anyway. I’m sure glad I did because that was asked for at the bus station. In Havana and perhaps other bigger cities, there is a Viazul terminal that taxi drivers should know. In Viñales, and probably other small towns, the bus just picks up on the street in front of the storefront that sells tickets.

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In Viñales, I rented a scooter for the day for the exorbitant cost of around 30 CUC (they’re about half that in Southeast Asia) from a rental place at the same location as Restaurante la Casa de Don Tomás, Salvador Cisneros No 140.

The scooter was a really fun way to explore Viñales because some of its interesting sites and caves are 10 km outside of town. I scooted to one with a few stops along the way, then went back the other direction to another cave, and had an ill-fated search for a lake along the way.

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One View Point I Found with My Scooter


Renting a scooter was worth it, even at its too-high price, and was probably the same as (or cheaper than) hiring a taxi for the day.

My Own Two Feet

I felt extremely safe everywhere I went in Cuba. One of the few upsides of living in a police state is security. I thought nothing of walking through some neighborhoods between Vedado and Havana Vieja that, had they been in Central American countries, I would have completely avoided.

There are some great walking options in Viñales as well.

Car Rental

I didn’t do it. It is possible. I met some Americans who had paid 70 CUC per day and arranged their rental from America.

Bike Rental

I didn’t do it. I saw them in Viñales at the town square for 10 CUC per day.


There are two main lodging options in Cuba:

  1. government-run hotels
  2. Rooms in private homes, casas particulares”

I am normally agnostic about other people’s travel. I’ll tell you your options and let you decide, but come on, in this case, eschew the hotels and stay in casas particulares.

I stopped by a few hotels in Havana on my trip for the internet, and my casa owner in Viñales suggested I go to a hotel there to enjoy the pool, but I have not seen the inside of a hotel room in Cuba. I imagine they are up to world standards, but more expensive than you’d expect to pay for a similar stay in a similarly poor country.

Casas particulares are much more interesting. I know of no other country in the world where it is so easy to stay at the house of a typical local for such a small fee, and generally with the option to have local food prepared for you for your meals. If you travel to meet locals and sample local food, you really can’t miss out on paying 20 CUC per night for the chance. There are three main ways to book casas:

  1. On long-running sites like cubacasas.com
  2. By walking around in Cuba
  3. On Airbnb

Old Sites

I did not rent on cubacasas.com, but I wish I had. I figured I didn’t want to call to book, and I doubted that I could book a casa by email based on what I knew about Cuba’s internet. However, from talking to my casa owner in Havana, I think it would be very easy to book a casa via email a few weeks in advance through a site like cubacasas.com. Casa owners have easy access to some sort of internet that is extremely slow and only good for email, she explained. So, if I could do it all over again, I’d book my first casa on cubacasas.com before arrival, just to lower the stress of arrival by having a bed ready.

Walking Around

Then I’d book the rest of my casas by walking around. They are all over Havana, with very visible signs over the door.

Screen Shot 2015-06-06 at 11.26.54 PM

And nearly every house in Viñales is a casa particular.

Walking around would let you see the rooms on offer–which vary widely–and the prices, which vary less. I paid 18 CUC per night, down from the 20 CUC offer, in Viñales. I paid 35 CUC per night in Havana for a room with a view of the Caribbean. Both of my casas had separate entrances for guests, which I appreciated, so I didn’t have to walk in loudly at night and disturb anyone.

Screen Shot 2015-06-06 at 11.41.26 PM
View from My Casa in Havana


My casa in Havana did not offer food. That’s pretty rare. I covered my meals at my Viñales casa in this post about food, money, internet, and nightlife in Cuba.


I booked my first two nights on Airbnb. I do not recommend it. Not only will you pay a little more than you’ll pay through other sites, but you won’t get the amazing Airbnb experience you’re used to.

My experience was a little off from start to finish. I was communicating with someone who was not in Cuba instead of the owner of the casa. Through Airbnb messages, I did set up an airport pick up at 1:30 AM for 25 CUC with the actual casa owner, which was nice because I was stressed about arriving so late and then maybe getting lost in a cab.

But the casa owner explained to me that the place I’d booked had a pipe problem, and he’d take me somewhere else. Isn’t that the classic line a taxi driver tells you to steer you to a place that offers him a commission instead of the ho(s)tel you have in mind?

He took me to another place, which might very well have been nicer, and I didn’t pay an extra or get any refund from him, so it worked out OK overall, but not the way I expect Airbnb to work. To get the experience you expect, book a casa through cubacasas.com.

Any questions about lodging or transportation in Cuba?

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This is the ninth installment of a round-the-world trip report that started here. We pick up in Singapore.

Full Trip Report

Singapore 306
Singapore (SIN) – London (LHR)
Depart: 1:30 AM on March 6, 2014
Arrive: 8:00 AM on March 6, 2014
Duration: 13.5 hours
Aircraft: Airbus A380 Boeing 777-300ER
Seat: 1A (First Class)

After several hours hanging out in the Singapore Changi Airport’s butterfly garden, free movie theater, Priority Pass lounges, and Singapore Private Room lounge, I headed to my flight. I was ecstatic to fly Suites Class on the Singapore A380.

Up until now, I had thought nothing of the fact that my boarding pass said First Class–the name used for the best cabin on the 777–instead of Suites Class–the best cabin on the A380.

Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 2.02.57 AM

Nor did I think anything of the gate’s First Class, not Suites Class sign, or the fact that there were no stairs to a second deck anywhere. It was dark, and I was tired, so the single decker sitting at the gate didn’t register.

Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 1.57.19 AM

I enjoyed a First Class boarding experience where I was met at the door by a flight attendant and taken to my seat.

Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 1.57.24 AM

And what a throne it was–about as wide as the Cathay Pacific First Class seats that could easily fit two. (Seat Guru has Singapore First Class at 35″ wide and Cathay First at 36″.) But why wasn’t the seat fully enclosed?

Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 1.57.30 AM

Somehow I was flying Singapore First Class on a 777-300ER, not Suites Class on an A380. I had booked Suites Class, which features fully enclosed suites and flies some of the London frequencies.

Suites Class, A380

But there was a last minute airplane swap to a 777-300ER on my flight. If I had known, I would have switched flights because the exact time of my arrival into London wasn’t very important. But I hadn’t been informed by Singapore, and I hadn’t checked online the day before to reconfirm my plane.

In the end, it worked out fine for me. First Class is nearly as nice as Suites Class, and my email complaints about my downgrade to Singapore Airlines after the flight netted me 30,000 Singapore miles, which was enough for a First Class award on a flat bed between Hawaii and the mainland United States.

As I made piece with the fact that I was in Singapore First Class, not Suites Class, I took a look around the cabin, which has eight seats arranged 1-2-1.

Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 1.57.37 AM

The middle seats are ideal for a traveling pair. If you are not with the person sitting next to you, a privacy divider can be raised between the seats.Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 1.57.43 AM

In front of the seat is a 23″ flat screen TV and an ottoman.Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 1.57.58 AM

Again, everything is so spacious, that I only needed about 25% of the ottoman’s width. There are no overhead bins in First Class, so I had my favorite carry on and personal item under the seat in front of me.Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 1.58.07 AM

Before departure, I was offered a pre-departure beverage. For champagne, Singapore offers both Dom Perignon and Krug. I went with a glass of Krug.Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 1.58.36 AM

The Krug came with Macadamia nuts, my favorite.

Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 2.00.27 AM

Also before departure, I was given the menu, amenity kit, pajamas, and slippers.

The menu read as follows:
Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 1.58.57 AM Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 1.59.04 AM Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 1.59.12 AM Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 1.59.19 AM Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 1.59.28 AM Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 1.59.33 AM Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 1.59.43 AM Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 1.59.50 AM Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 1.59.57 AM Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 2.00.02 AM Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 2.00.08 AM Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 2.00.14 AM Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 2.00.20 AM

The amenity kit was Sothys branded and featured some high end lotions.Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 2.00.25 AM Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 2.00.33 AM Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 2.00.44 AM

The pajamas were presented less than artfully, wrapped in plain white paper.

Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 2.00.40 AM

But they were very nice and comfortable. I immediately changed into them and wore them for most of the flight.Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 2.00.51 AM

I changed in the bathrooms, which were more spacious than coach, but nothing special.

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After takeoff, I asked for a turndown service. Since the middle seat next to me was empty, the flight attendant suggested that she make that as a bed for me, so I could have separate seats and beds. That sounded great.

The bed was presented beautifully with a mattress pad, duvet, and two pillows.

Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 2.00.58 AM Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 2.01.06 AM

The bed was very comfortable, and I immediately slept for about eight hours.Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 2.01.28 AM

When I awoke, I asked for my meal. I had Booked the Cook–pre-ordered my meal. The selections are extensive. Unfortunately the breakfast options aren’t as strong as the lunch and dinner options. I’m not a big breakfast person, so I went with the burger.

The tray table was very large, I was able to lounge and watch a movie during the service. First I was brought an orange juice.Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 2.01.34 AM

Then the plates and silverware came out.Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 2.01.40 AM

The meal started with a plate of delicious fresh fruit.
Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 2.01.48 AM

Next I selected a croissant from the bread basket.Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 2.01.55 AM

Finally came the main course, which looks terrible in this photo, but was actually fine.Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 2.02.00 AM

After the meal, I returned to my window seat. I used the pair of Bose noise canceling headphones to watch TV and movies the rest of the flight.
Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 1.58.51 AM

If you need to touch up makeup after the long sleep, the panels beside the TV open up into mirrors.

Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 2.02.31 AM

The rest of the flight passed uneventfully, and we landed in London on time and all smiles.Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 2.02.44 AM

Bottom Line

I got the least out of this First Class experience compared to First Class flights on Asiana, Cathay Pacific, EmiratesLufthansaThaiUnited, and Malaysia. Most of that was my fault. I slept for the majority of the flight instead of choosing a daytime flight.

Screen Shot 2015-06-01 at 6.13.54 PM
No need to sleep on the Singapore A380

I also skipped my first Book the Cook meal because I was stuffed from the lounges. I didn’t take advantage of the specialty cocktails or ask very much of the flight attendants.

Part of my lack of engagement was that I was just tired and full, and part of it was my disappointment that I thought I’d be flying Suites Class and only found out when I boarded that I wouldn’t be. A lot of it was that there are fewer fun things to do on the Singapore 777 than on, say, an Emirates A380, which features onboard showers and an onboard bar. That said:

  • The service was very good. In Singapore Airline First Class, you will be met at the door, constantly addressed by name, and proactively offered refills. If there are empty seats, you may be offered them as beds, so you can always have a bed and seat ready.
  • The food was fine for me. I think generally the food, especially when departing Singapore is considered excellent, and many people rave about the lobster thermidor. I liked all the options I had when I Booked the Cook, but I didn’t even eat the chicken curry I ordered.
  • The bed was extraordinary. It was very wide and very comfortable. I slept for about eight hours.
  • The seat was large, wide, and comfortable. It didn’t have the privacy that an enclosed suite would have had.
  • The entertainment was excellent. There were about 200 movies and dozens of TV shows.

Compare this trip report to a Trip Report of Suites Class on the Singapore A380.

Booking the Award

See: Anatomy of an Award: Booking Singapore Suites

Flying Singapore Suites costs between 57,375 Singapore miles–New York to Frankfurt–and 93,500 miles–New York to Singapore–one way. Singapore does not release its First Class or Suites Class award space to partners, so you need Singapore miles. That’s no problem because Citi ThankYou Points, AMEX Membership Rewards, Chase Ultimate Rewards, and SPG Starpoints all transfer 1:1 to Singapore miles.

You can get over 106,000 ThankYou Points (Singapore miles) by opening the Citi Prestige and Citi ThankYou Premier, which each have increased their sign up bonuses to 50,000 ThankYou Points after spending $3,000 in the first three months. You have to apply for the cards at least eight days apart. Here’s more info.

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I just spent a completely legal week in Cuba, split between Havana and Viñales. An American in Cuba in 2015 is a six part series on the trip. This post will focus on things I wish I’d known about internet, money, food, and nightlife in Cuba before going

Screen Shot 2015-05-12 at 10.43.17 AM

Other Posts

Coming soon posts on lodging, transportation, Havana, and Viñales.


There are two Cuban national currencies:

  • Convertible pesos: abbreviated CUC. Things you’ll hear Cubans call convertible pesos in Spanish: “pesos convertibles“, “cucs” (pronounced “kooks”), “pesos”, and confusingly “dólares.” Also confusingly, CUC cents are usually called “kilos” by Cubans.
  • Non-convertible pesos: abbreviated CUP. Things you’ll hear Cubans call non-convertible pesos in Spanish: “moneda nacional” or “pesos

Exchange rates are fixed:

  • 1 CUC = 25 CUP
  • 1 CUC = $1 (though note the caveats below)

Between 90% and 100% of your transactions will be in CUC, and prices will almost always be quoted to you in CUC. Since CUC are the more valuable currency, there’s no type of scam related to naming a price in one currency and then charging you the other.

The only scam you could run into with the currency would be getting change in less valuable CUP instead of CUC. They look kind of similar, but even a cursory glance will reveal obvious differences. The main one to look for: the words “pesos convertibles” on both sides of CUC bills.

Screen Shot 2015-05-12 at 11.02.35 AM
Top: 1 CUC. Bottom: 20 CUP

The bills also have a very different design style.

Screen Shot 2015-05-12 at 11.02.45 AM
Top: back of 1 CUC. Bottom: back of 20 CUP

Here are pictures of CUP (above) and CUC (below) for all denominations. I love that both feature 3 peso notes, the only country I know of that offers a 3 unit bill.

Screen Shot 2015-05-12 at 11.14.13 AM

Everything I purchased was in CUC except for street pizzas (see Food below.) While things priced in CUP are cheaper than things priced in CUC, that is entirely a function of CUP prices only being attached to cheap things marketed to locals. There is no advantage to paying in CUC or CUP.

As I said above, there is a fixed exchange rate between the two. If you ever see a price in CUC or CUP, you can pay in either. Many stores have this sign proclaiming that fact, but even without the sign just pay 25x CUP to purchase something priced in CUC or 1/25 the CUC to purchase something in CUP.

Screen Shot 2015-05-11 at 11.41.57 AM

Exchanging Money

I didn’t even attempt to use my ATM card in Cuba because I was certain it wouldn’t work. I did attempt to use my Citi Prestige® Card at the Havana airport to buy cigars, and it was rejected despite being a MasterCard, which announced a few months ago that it would process payments for Americans in Cuba. (Please comment with your experience attempting to use ATMs or credit cards in Cuba.)

That leaves the major option of exchanging money.

You can exchange cash throughout the country at exchange houses, banks, and, I believe, hotels. The exchange houses at Havana’s airport were open at 2 AM when I arrived, so I assume they are open 24 hours.

The exchange houses have about a 6% spread between buy and sell prices, 3% on each side of the “true” exchange rate.

In addition, there is a 10% fee for changing US dollars into Cuban pesos.

That means despite $1 being worth 1 CUC, you only get 87 CUC per $100 at an exchange house.

The best solution is to bring a different currency, specifically euros, pounds, or Canadian dollars, to Cuba so you only get dinged 3% instead of 13%. However, I don’t know a cheap way to get euros, pounds, or Canadian dollars in the United States or at airports, so I was stuck with dollars. (Please comment if you know a cheap–loss of under 5% of value–way to get foreign currencies in the United States.)

Because of the 10% fee for changing them, there is somewhat of a black market for dollars. I was approached to exchange $200 for 180 CUC outside the exchange house at Havana airport. I was told you could get 95 CUC per $100 bill (ie not $20 bills) if you asked around.


I spent $700 for everything excluding flights for seven days in Cuba. This included staying at casas particulares and no meals above 10 CUC. I think most people will spend more money, especially if they stay in hotels. Bring lots of money since if you run out, there is no easy way to get more.


Internet takes work in Cuba. There is no cellular data network, so you need to find a place that offers wifi or computers with internet. The only places that offer these things are ETECSA offices and fancy hotels.

ETECSA Offices

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ETECSA office in Viñales

There are about 100 ETECSA, the Cuban state telecom company, offices throughout the country. ETECSA offices offer computers hooked up to the internet and wifi. I never inquired about the computers because I had a laptop, and they were often all full.

Wifi at ETECSA offices costs 2.25 CUC per half hour. You must bring a passport to purchase wifi scratch off cards like this.

Screen Shot 2015-05-11 at 11.43.35 AM

With the user name and password, you log on and start your clock. Ask when purchasing the card how to log out if you don’t want to use the entire 30 minutes at once.

While ETECSA offices have normal business hours like 9 AM to 7 PM, you can usually connect to the wifi outside the building, and the wifi is left on 24 hours.

In Viñales, the ETECSA office functioned smoothly, and I enjoyed a comfortable chair in the air conditioning during the day when using the wifi and sat out front at night if I wanted to connect my phone to wifi to message people on Facebook or WhatsApp. I found wifi speeds to be pretty good at this office, better than at the Melia Cohiba in Havana (more on that below.)

In Havana, ETECSA was a bit more of an adventure. The two offices I tried were sold out of the scratch cards, leaving only renting computer time as an option. All the computers were full though, so I headed for a hotel instead.

Fancy Hotels

Nice hotels also sell wifi. The service is available to guests and non-guests alike. Enter and ask any employee where wifi is sold, usually at the Business Center. I used wifi at two hotels in Havana.

At the Melia Cohiba Havana, a two hour wifi pass cost 14 CUC. You could log in and log out to preserve the time. Wifi was terrible at the Melia Cohiba. It seemed to alternate between offering no connection and a slow connection in 10 minute intervals.

At the Hotel Nacional de Cuba, a one hour wifi pass cost 7 CUC. You could log in and log out to preserve the time. Wifi was good at the Hotel Nacional, at least on par with the ETECSA office in Viñales.

Blocked Sites

I had no trouble accessing gmail, Twitter, Facebook, WordPress, or any other site I tried. I asked a Cuban what was blocked and she said, “Pornography, snuff films, and some media especially from the United States.”

At the Airport

Havana’s airport has an ETECSA wifi network, though there is no way to purchase scratch cards as far as I know. You may want to purchase extra cards at an ETECSA office during your stay for your wait at the airport.


Private restaurants, called “paladares” in Cuba, have increased greatly in number in the past few years. I ate some of my meals at paladares, some at state-run restaurants, some at my casa particular (more on casas particulares in the lodging post, and some at takeaway places on the street.

At Your Casa

I stayed all seven nights in Cuba in private homes called casas particulares. At most casas, the owner will cook for you for a fee. This is a great opportunity to get typical, local food for a very reasonable cost.

My main tip when eating at your casa is to tell the cook what you like. There isn’t a fixed menu; they’ll just make what you like if you tell them and what they like or what’s cheap if you don’t.

In Viñales, I told the cook I like chicken, pork, and beef, so I was given pork two nights and chicken once.

I ate breakfast and dinner at the casa each night. The meals he made me were colossal.

Dinner was 8 CUC and included:

  • a big piece of chicken or pork and potatoes or a potato-like vegetable
  • a plate of tomato and cucumber slices drowned in oil
  • a big fruit salad of papya, mango, and pineapple
  • a big bowl of rice and black beans (not pictured)
  • a glass of juice (not pictured)

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For another 1.5 CUC, he would give me a can of beer. I got the sense that these prices were suggested to him by a tourism board, and I didn’t try to negotiate.

For breakfast I told him that I only wanted fruit, so he gave me this each morning for 2 CUC.

Screen Shot 2015-05-11 at 11.43.06 AM


I imagine a breakfast with meat would have been more, but I can’t believe how much fruit I got for 2 CUC.

I don’t like seafood, but I understand that that is a very typical dinner at casas. To reiterate, tell the casa what you want, and you’ll get it and a lot of it.

Most of my meals were just cut vegetables and fruits plus rice and beans, so not exactly anything where cooking skill matters. The only things really cooked, the meat and potatoes, were fine. Nothing spectacular, but not hard to happily eat after a long day.

I recommend eating at your casa as it will give you decent food at a decent price while giving you more great contact with locals.


My casa owner in Havana was elderly and didn’t offer food. She told me about a cheap restaurant one block away called “El Rápido.” I saw restaurants of the same name throughout Cuba, so it must be a chain.

I believe that it is a state-run chain, and thus not a paladar, which are family-owned restaurants.

El Rápido printed the menu right on the table and main courses were 2 to 3 CUC.

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One meal I got the chicken breast, which was fine.

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Another I got the spaghetti bolognese, also fine.Screen Shot 2015-05-11 at 11.41.48 AM

Finally I settled on pizza with ground beef and pineapple, also fine. This restaurant did not blow me away, but it was close and cheap, and I liked talking to the waiters, so I ate there every day in Havana.

Of course, there are restaurants with much better ambience and food. In the touristy areas of Havana Vieja, restaurants spill onto the sidewalks and offer live music.
Screen Shot 2015-05-11 at 11.42.07 AM

And you can check out the top paladares on Trip Advisor.

In Viñales, I ate at two paladares. El Olivo was highly recommended by Lonely Planet. I got the cannelloni with mixed meat. It was OK, but not nearly as good as I would expect for a recommended restaurant.

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For another lunch, I ate at one of the other non-descript paladares that crowd the main street in Viñales because it had ropa vieja on the menu, and that was the one “Cuban food” besides sandwiches that I had eaten in the United States. Again, it was OK.Screen Shot 2015-05-11 at 11.43.20 AM

I know, I know. I just described every meal as OK. That’s partly because I am not a good food reviewer and partly because I found the Cuban food I ate to be pretty bland and boring, but not distasteful in any way. I didn’t eat at the top restaurants in the country by any means, but the median level of cuisine on the island badly trails many destinations.


The only purchases I made in CUP were at small take away restaurants with signs like this.

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Most sold pizza and sometimes beers and sandwiches. I got pizza from one in Viñales and one in Havana. These pizzas are super cheap (10 CUP is $0.40) and, surprise, surprise, just OK.Screen Shot 2015-05-11 at 11.44.14 AM Screen Shot 2015-05-11 at 11.44.16 AM


In Viñales, the nightlife was the same every night of the week. There are two places, one on the plaza and one on the main street, that offered live music at night. Ask where they are or follow the music

The one on the main street had no cover, but no real dance floor.

The one on the plaza was far more popular despite its modest cover of 1 CUC for foreigners. The music started around 9:30 PM.

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The plaza place had a nice dance floor perfect for salsa-ing to the band. If you are a girl sitting near the dance floor, you will invariably be offered the chance to dance with one of the local regulars.

Both live music spots were vast majority foreigners and local men. I didn’t see prostitutes at either. I actually didn’t see any in Viñales even though they are all over Havana.

In Havana, I had only one weekend night, so I tried to make the most of it. Here’s my makeshift nightlife map:

  • red pin = Fábrica del Arte nightclub and art gallery
  • westernmost black dot = my casa
  • central black dot = Avenida 23 and Avenida de los Presidentes
  • easternmost black dot = Sloppy Joe’s Bar
Screen Shot 2015-05-12 at 12.05.07 PM
source: maps.google.com

I started my night by walking to Avenida 23 because I had heard it was the area where people hung out on the streets inside and outside of bars. I didn’t know exactly where on Avenida 23, but I found the nightlife starting at Avenida de los Presidentes and heading northeast from there to the Malecon. I found a group of students–locals and foreigners–with a little guitar circle on some steps on a corner and joined them for a drink.

Always on the lookout for something better, I caught a shared taxi (1 CUC) to the old town to Sloppy Joe’s, a bar I expected to be full of foreigners. It was only half full with foreigners and a few prostitutes at the bar. I headed back to Avenida 23 and Avenida de los Presidentes and asked some students to recommend some bars. I got several suggestions and took off walking. I got a little lost, though I did find a local bar by following the music. It was crowded, but mostly people sitting with friends at tables, so I hailed a taxi to go to the last suggestion I had been given: Fábrica del Arte.

Fábrica del Arte was the best place I found. Downstairs was a quieter bar area and a separate dancing area with a DJ. Upstairs was an art gallery you could walk through. It seemed to attract a middle class Cuban crowd. (Well, way upper class for Cuba, but it felt middle class to me as an American.) I loved the space and the people, so this is the one recommendation I have for nightlife in Havana. Tell your taxi to take you to Calle 26 and Calle 11 in Vedado. Unfortunately I don’t know the best nights or time, but at 1 AM on Saturday night, it was pretty good.

Up Next

I’m halfway done. Next up I’ll explain lodging and transportation options. Finally I’ll give full trip reports for Havana and Viñales.

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I just spent a completely legal week in Cuba, split between Havana and Viñales. An American in Cuba in 2015 is a six part series on the trip. This post will focus on entry and exit requirements for Americans going to Cuba.

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Sunset Over Viñales, Cuba

Full Series


I’ve always wanted to go to Cuba because it’s there, specifically 90 miles from Miami, and I wasn’t allowed to.

Other reasons to go include the chance to see communism before it dies, pristine beach resorts, fine cigars and rum, to see crumbling 1950s beauty, and more chances for home stays with locals than in any other country I’ve visited.

Cigar Time inside a Barn Drying Tobacco
Cigar Time inside a Barn Drying Tobacco

The Current Rules for Americans to Enter Cuba

It has never been illegal for Americans to travel to Cuba, but it was illegal to spend money there without prior approval, and a trip there would be considered de facto proof that you had spent money there.

In January, President Obama announced a loosening of travel restrictions. Instead of having to have the Treasury Department certify that you are in one of the 12 approved categories for spending money in Cuba (ie travel to Cuba), you can self-certify with no advanced proof required. From the State Department’s website:

The U.S. Department of the Treasury’s Office of Foreign Assets Control (OFAC) has issued general licenses within the 12 categories of authorized travel for many travel-related transactions to, from, or within Cuba that previously required a specific license (i.e., an application and a case-by-case determination)… No further permission from OFAC is required to engage in transactions covered by a general license.

The 12 categories are:

  • family visits
  • official business of the U.S. government, foreign governments, and certain intergovernmental organizations
  • journalistic activity
  • professional research and professional meetings
  • educational activities
  • religious activities
  • public performances, clinics, workshops, athletic and other competitions, and exhibitions
  • support for the Cuban people
  • humanitarian projects
  • activities of private foundations or research or educational institutes
  • exportation, importation, or transmission of information or information materials
  • certain authorized export transactions

I went for journalistic activity, the product of which you are reading right now.

I’m not a lawyer, and nothing in this post should be considered legal advice, but, as a traveler, those categories look pretty broad to me. I’m sure anyone who wants to go to Cuba can find a way to plan a trip that involves a religious or educational activity. There are churches and schools all over the country. And, more importantly, I think the changes Obama announced sent a powerful signal to United States Customs and Border Protection (which he heads as the head of the Executive Branch) that they shouldn’t hassle people coming back from Cuba.

You must pick a category, and while I was never asked to prove my category before, during, or after my trip, I imagine it would be a good idea to have some supporting evidence at hand.

The Actual Steps and Paper Work Involved with Entering Cuba

Have ready for your trip:

  • Passport
  • Printed copies of your itinerary, especially your flight that leaves Cuba
  • Proof of Medical Insurance
  • Euros or Canadian Dollars (or less good, American Dollars, more on all this in a future post on money)
  • Evidence of which of the 12 categories you fall into

I checked in for my Copa flights from Washington DC to Panama City to Havana at Dulles Airport. (More on how to book flights in the next post; more on seeing the Panama Canal on my layover here.)

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Source: gcmap.com

Since I was on a one way ticket, the Copa agent asked me for proof of onward travel from Cuba. I showed her a PDF of my Asiana award from Havana to Bogota on my phone, which took me a few minutes to find. It would have been much easier to have brought a printed itinerary.

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She handed me this form in Spanish, presumably English copies are also available, which asked me to specify which of the 12 categories for a general license to travel to Cuba I fell into as well as some personal information.

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I completed the form and handed it back. I do not know whose form it is and whether the US government ever sees that form.

I was given both my Washington-to-Panama and Panama-to-Havana boarding passes by the agent, and I proceeded through security to my gate and a Chipotle burrito breakfast.

Other than that form and showing my flight out of Cuba, nothing was different about my airport experience at Dulles compared to what it would have been if I had been flying to Cleveland.

In Panama

In Panama City, as I was boarding the flight to Havana, I handed the agent my boarding pass and American passport. She handed me an equivalent form to the one I had gotten at check in at Dulles, but in English.

I completed that form and held onto it, and I was never asked for it at any point by anyone.

I asked her, “Don’t I need to get the Cuban visa here?,” and she said, “Oh yes!” You buy the Cuban visa from the airline for $20 cash.

Onboard I was handed the Cuban immigration form. Pictured below is the English form that asks which of the 12 categories I am (left), Cuban immigration form (top right), and Cuban visa (bottom right.)
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Upon arrival in Cuba, I proceeded to immigration. The agent needed my passport, Cuban immigration form, and Cuban visa.

I thought I was in the clear, but then she asked for proof of my medical insurance. I showed her my card that my American insurance company gives me. It is not travel insurance. She looked it over, and asked me, “This just says the number to call if you’re injured in Hawaii.” I pointed to an 800 number that said to call if injured elsewhere.

She accepted that, and gave me back my passport with half the Cuban visa. Do not lose that half of the visa. You need it to leave.

I’m pretty sure my medical insurance does not cover me in Cuba. I understand that Cuba sells travel insurance on the spot to tourists who arrive without proper proof of travel insurance. I have no first hand knowledge of that.

After immigration, there were a few tables of doctors (or nurses?) who appeared to be giving health checks.

Before you get to the doctors, grab a customs form.

The doctors stopped me, but when I showed my American passport I was let through without a check.

I had not checked a bag, so I proceeded past baggage claim to customs. I went into the “Nothing to Declare” line, and the agent asked for my customs form. Apparently I had missed it. It was right back after immigration. I went back, filled it out, and brought it back to the Nothing to Declare line where the agent made sure it was complete and then dropped it into something that looked like a ballot box.

I was free to leave the airport!

Key Points

  • Have passport, evidence of your category for Cuba travel (though this was never requested), evidence of flight out of Cuba, cash, and proof of medical insurance ready to go at check in
  • Buy a Cuban visa from your airline for $20 before you board your flight to Cuba
  • Get a Cuban immigration form on your flight to Cuba
  • Give passport, Cuban visa, Cuban immigration form, and proof of medical insurance to immigration agent in Cuba. Hold onto your half of the Cuban visa for exit.
  • Get a customs form after immigration and give it to customs agent after baggage claim

Leaving Cuba

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Among the Stalactites and Stalagmites of Santo Tomas Cavern

Things you need:

  • The half of the Cuban visa given back to you by the immigration officer
  • Your passport
  • 40-50 CUC (more on what a “CUC” is in the post on money)

A taxi from Vedado (a section of Havana, more on that in the Havana post) to the airport cost me 15 CUC, negotiated upfront. I believe you can negotiate a taxi from anywhere in Havana to the airport for 15 CUC, but if you are a bad negotiator or try to get a taxi outside of a hotel, be ready with 25 CUC.

The ride to the airport took about 30 minutes, and I got there almost about 2.5 hours before my flight. I almost never arrive more than 90 minutes before a flight, but I was glad I gave myself so much time. It took me 1 hour 26 minutes to get from my taxi to my gate.

I was flying Avianca to Bogota, and Avianca has another flight about 45 minutes earlier to San Salvador. The check in line was packed with people from both flights being checked in by four agents and no self check-in machines. It took me one hour from the start of the line to the end. The agent just needed my passport to check me in.

All other airlines had shorter check in lines for what it’s worth, but you may still want to arrive very early.

After getting your boarding pass, you have to pay the 25 CUC airport tax in cash. The line here was also very long, but the two agents could process people quickly, so I only waited about five minutes.

Next came emigration, which was hard to find because its entrance was blocked by so many Cubans who had come to the airport to see off their friends. The line here was another five minutes. I gave the agent my passport and the other half of my Cuban visa and got through quickly.

At no point during immigration or emigration was my passport stamped. I was hoping they would, but I didn’t ask.

Security took another few minutes, and I was at the gate about 60 minutes before my flight.

The airport does have WiFi. The only way to access it is with an ETECSA WiFi scratch card (more on all this in a post about internet), but none are sold at the airport as far as I can tell. If I had known this in advance, I would have brought one or two with me. There were also computers you could rent, but I didn’t have any more CUC or inquire about their price.

Key Things to Leave Cuba (Arrive very early)

  • Your passport
  • The half of the Cuban visa given back to you by the immigration officer
  • 15-25 CUC for your taxi
  • 25 CUC for your exit tax
  • ETECSA WiFi cards if you want to use the internet

Entering the United States

Global Entry Pitch

I have Global Entry, which means that I never have to fill out the United States paper immigration form and rarely have to speak to an immigration officer upon entering the country. If you have time to get Global Entry before Cuba, do it.

Global Entry saves me a few minutes to a few hours of time in line on every re-entry to the United States all for the cost of a $100 application fee, filling out a lengthy application, and one short interview with a Customs and Border Patrol agent. Plus Global Entry gets me TSA Precheck on all my domestic and international flights, which saves time and hassle when going through security. The $100 fee is totally worth it, but you don’t even have to pay that. Cards like the Citi Prestige® Card offer a $100 statement credit if you pay the application fee with your Citi Prestige. (My full review of the Citi Prestige.)

Entry into United States

After Cuba, I headed to Colombia for four days. This was in no way strategic; I just wanted to visit friends in Bogota. I flew back from Bogota to Miami to Washington DC. When I landed in Miami, I went through immigration. My kiosk experience was the same as always.

  • Scan my passport
  • Take a picture
  • Confirm my arriving flight
  • Answer “No” about bringing anything in that I needed to declare
  • Get my print out

I headed past baggage claim because I had no checked bags and handed my print out slip to the customs agent who waived me through.

Customs Rules

According to the US Customs and Border Protection website:

Can I import Cuban cigars into the U.S.?

Persons authorized to travel to Cuba may purchase alcohol and tobacco products while in Cuba for personal consumption while there. Authorized travelers may return to the United States with up to $100 worth of alcohol and/or tobacco products acquired in Cuba in accompanied baggage, for personal use only.

For further information, see this public notice from CPB.

I brought back about $50 worth of cigars.

What If You Don’t Have Global Entry?

My recollection is that the form that non-Global Entry folks fill out asks which countries you’ve visited on your time outside the United States. I would tell the truth, since if you’re in one of the 12 designated categories listed above, your trip was legal.

Bottom Line

Since January 2015, Americans can enter Cuba and spend money without prior approval of the Treasury Department as long as we self-certify that we are visiting Cuba for one of 12 permitted reasons.

Make sure you have everything you need for entry into Cuba, exit from Cuba, and entry back into the United States before making the trip.

The next post will focus on how Americans can buy flights to Cuba in 2015 with cash or frequent flyer miles.

Request for Comments

Cuba is a hard country to understand sometimes, and often I didn’t ask when I was confused because I didn’t want to draw attention to myself. Please comment on this and all future posts if you’ve been to Cuba. Did I make any mistakes or omissions? Did your experience differ? Your comments can really help people who are planning a trip to Cuba.

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You can very easily go to the Panama Canal at the Miraflores Locks on a multi-hour layover at Panama City’s Tocumen International Airport. You don’t even need to book a tour.

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Last week I used a 7.5 hour layover in Panama City on a trip from Washington DC to Havana, Cuba to visit the Panama Canal and see two ships moving through its locks en route to the Pacific Ocean. My whole excursion took about four hours from the airport back to it.

Why Go to the Panama Canal and Where Exactly Do You Go?

The Panama Canal is a wonder of engineering and human achievement. Ships are taken from sea level through three locks and other manmade and natural parts of the canal and then back to sea level in a different ocean. At locks, the ships are raised or lowered before moving through. Before the Panama Canal, to get around the Americas you had to go thousands of miles farther to the south of South America.

The nearest locks to the Tocumen Airport in Panama City are the Miraflores Locks, near the Pacific Ocean. These locks are 35 km from the airport and take 35 to 75 minutes of driving–depending on traffic–to reach. Here you can see ships going through the locks from an observation deck just a few dozen meters from the action, and you can tour the museum and Visitors Center.

How to Get to the Miraflores Locks

  1. Hire a taxi at the airport to take you to the locks, wait two hours, and take you back to the airport.
  2. Book a tour.

If you speak Spanish, the first option is definitely cheaper and preferable. Even if you don’t speak Spanish, you’re probably better off just booking a taxi when you arrive.

A quick search shows a tour that costs $107 for one person and charges extra for more passengers. I paid $60–Panama uses the US dollar–total for my taxi, and there would have been no extra charge for extra passengers.

Getting the $60 price took a little negotiating and a little walking around.

After exiting immigration (US passports do not need visa), there was a group of taxi drivers. I asked one what the charge would be to take me to the Miraflores Locks, wait two hours, and bring me back. He brought me over to the official desk, and they quoted me something crazy like $100. I walked outside and found some more taxi drivers. They offered me the trip for $90.

Then I saw one taxi driver alone. He offered me the trip for $60.

My theory is that the taxi company at the airport has a monopoly and exorbitant prices. Taxi drivers are unwilling to undercut the cartel if their co-workers are around. But if you find one alone, you can get a more reasonable price.

In the developing world, I think $60 is fair for 70 km of driving and four hours of the driver’s time. Maybe some drivers would be willing to go for less, but I can’t imagine getting cheaper than $50.

The taxi there at 2:15 PM took about 40 minutes. The taxi back at 5 PM hit rush hour traffic and took about 75 minutes, during which I mostly napped. Both ways, the drive gave great views of the coast and of Panama City.

The taxi driver stayed in the car for the entire two hours I was at the locks, so I left my carry ons in the car. Just in case he was some nefarious thief–he wasn’t–I snapped a picture of his license plate before going into the Visitors Center.

I am very glad I used a taxi instead of a tour for the money savings and convenience of going whenever I landed without having to make prior plans.

The Visitors Center at Miraflores Locks

Foreigners pay $15 for a ticket to the Visitors Center, which includes access to a few short films, a museum, and some rooms that recreate the view of engineers and ship captains during crossings.

First I watched a 10 minute film that runs nearly constantly alternating between Spanish and English about the construction and history of the canal.

Then I walked through displays about the construction of the museum. These were all edifying. They clarified to me who had built the canal, how difficult it had been, and why the United States eventually gave back control of the canal to Panama.

The museum featured a recreation of what engineers at the locks see…

Screen Shot 2015-04-30 at 6.22.14 PM

…and one of what ship captains see. I breezed through the film and museum in about 45 minutes. At that point I headed up the observation deck.

Here’s the view, which clearly shows the 54 feet a ship needs to be raised or lowered to pass the locks.Screen Shot 2015-04-30 at 6.22.24 PM

We were about to watch two ships that were being dropped down to sea level to head further south to the Pacific. There are two paths for the two ships to clear the locks simultaneously.
Screen Shot 2015-04-30 at 6.22.34 PM

When I arrived, the ships were just exiting the Pedro Miguel locks, just visible in the distance.Screen Shot 2015-04-30 at 6.22.42 PM

They trudged very slowly towards us, assisted by tug boats.Screen Shot 2015-04-30 at 6.22.52 PM

Dozens of us watched in rapt anticipation. Screen Shot 2015-04-30 at 6.23.13 PM

Finally the two ships arrived at the Miraflores Locks. A man over the loudspeaker–who basically emceed the afternoon–told us the nearer one was a Norwegian Cruise Liner and the farther one was a cargo ship.Screen Shot 2015-04-30 at 6.23.28 PM

At this point, the ships inch through the locks with only a few feet to spare and being guided by the small carts on the tracks on either side. The cruise liner had passengers on every deck.
Screen Shot 2015-04-30 at 6.23.39 PM

Finally the ships arrived at the point where they had to wait for water to be drained.

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And slowly the water did drain. Compare its level above and below.

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Unfortunately, it was now 5 PM. I’d been at the locks for two hours, and the museum closes at 5 PM, so I had to go. I didn’t quite get to see the ship pass through the locks completely, but I certainly got the idea.

I napped as my driver fought traffic back to Tocumen. We arrived at the airport at about 6:15 PM, I collected my bag, and handed him $60. My excursion was definitely worth $75 total since I don’t know if I’ll ever be back in Panama.

I already had my boarding pass for my flight to Havana–I had gotten it at check in in Washington–so I headed to emigration. After flipping through my passport, the person asked when I had entered Panama. I replied that I had just entered a few hours earlier and gone to the Canal. I think that’s why I had no stamp because I was just considered in transit. That satisfied the passport checker, and I headed through security and to my gate arriving about three hours before my flight.

My whole excursion took about four hours including traffic, so I think a trip to the Miraflores Locks is fine if you have a 5+ hour layover.

Bottom Line

Copa often offers the cheapest flights and best award space from the United States to South America, Central America, and the Caribbean via its Panama City hub. You can usually select a longer layover of up to 24 hours for no extra money or miles. If you have a 5+ hour layover, head to the Miraflores Locks to see an engineering marvel up close.

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My friend and I stayed two nights at the Westin Maui Resort & Spa Ka’anapali last weekend that cost me 12,000 SPG Starpoints and $31.25 per night. I really enjoyed my stay and recommend the Westin Maui and Ka’anapali area generally.

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The hotel is on the beautiful, wide, miles-long Ka’anapali white sand beach just a few miles north of Lahaina on the west coast of Maui with perfect views of sunset over the ocean.

My friend and I spent three nights on Maui (and three on Oahu), and our plan was to camp the first night and stay at a nice hotel the next two nights. I wanted to use Starpoints, and both the Westin and Sheraton on the same beach should cost 12,000 points per night during most of the year. (During peak dates, they go for 16,000 points a night.)

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Unfortunately on our dates, the base room at the Sheraton was unavailable, so I was offered a better view for 13,500 points per night. I figured I’d get an ocean view for my 12,000 points at the Westin, so I picked the hotel that cost me fewer points.

I would summarize this FlyerTalk thread comparing the Sheraton and Westin as saying that some people prefer each one. On our travel dates, the Westin was more expensive with cash, but that isn’t always the case, and you can get it for a $269 base rate next month.
Screen Shot 2015-04-20 at 3.09.09 AM

Check In & Parking

We arrived at the hotel at 2:45 PM in our rental car and pulled to the valet stand to ask about self-parking. The valet had to check that we were actually hotel guests, which took about 2-3 minutes before opening the self-parking gate for us. This system is in place because once you are in the self-parking area, exit is free. Waiting around to park was not a great first impression.

Self-parking is included in the $31.25 (including tax) resort fee. We were given a second card for free at check in for our friends to use when visiting us. That’s not actually necessary, as we could have swiped the one card we got at check in to let our friends in, and they could have exited freely. The self-parking lot is right near the entrance, so it is convenient enough.

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When we checked in, we had to wait a few minutes in the Gold/Platinum line. While we waited, someone came out to give us cowrie shell leis. The hotel often had someone right at the main entrance doing this. We were given a fourth floor “Ocean View” room in the Ocean Tower, two towel cards, and two parking cards at check in. I accepted the “make a green choice offer,” which turned down some cleaning service for 500 points per night. That was a nice 1,000 points back.

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Our room was nice enough, although Ocean View was a bit of a stretch for the 4th Floor. It was mainly tree view with a little ocean peaking out.

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We got two queen beds, which were very spacious and comfortable.

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The room had a flat screen TV and a mini-fridge to store the Kona Brewing Company beer we had picked up at Walmart in Kahului. Unfortunately the room had a corkscrew, but no beer bottle opener. Luckily YouTube has a great video on opening one bottle with another. 😉

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The sink and mirror were outside the bathroom, which made it easy to chat while one of us got ready.

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The bathroom was standard. The hot water and water pressure in the shower were on point.

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The little balcony was perfect for two people to hang out with a drink.

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Resort Fee

Resort fees are a scam in my opinion. This $31.25 per night scam included:

  • High Speed Internet Access in your guestroom and public areas (basically a lie since everyone already gets free internet at SPG properties just for booking through an SPG platform)
  • Local and toll free calls up to 60 minutes
  • Two (2) bottles of water replenished daily as needed
  • Self-Parking
  • Shuttle service to Kapalua West Maui Airport, upon availability (this is not the airport that serves the mainland)
  • Shuttle service to Lahaina and to our three Starwood resorts
  • Logo souvenir eco bag
  • Outdoor portrait sitting and free 4 by 6 color photograph through Reflections Photography

We thought the 4″ by 6″ portrait sounded like a funny perk, so we took advantage. This service is only available Monday through Saturday with 3:40 PM Saturday the last slot. You sign up in the lobby, and the pictures took us just a few minutes. They’re hoping to sell you a more expensive package, and they hold the images hostage to entice you to buy.

They won’t email you the pictures. They will just print one out and put it on their table for you the next business day. Unfortunately we took our picture on a Saturday, so that meant we’d be checking out on Sunday before the picture was ready on Monday. The photographer said she could mail us the one photo for $16.


All the employees I encountered were friendly, and two went above and beyond.

The front desk check in agent offered me a second self-parking access key when I asked where our friends could park when they came to visit.

A manager picked up our 4″ x 6″ portrait and mailed it to us for free. We were walking through the lobby, and she asked how our stay was going. We had just taken our portrait, and we mentioned we were bummed we would not actually receive the final product. She took my friend’s address, and the photo was there when he got home.

I’ll also give good marks for how quickly extra cups were brought to our room and how quickly my to-go burgers from Relish were ready.


The only area I checked out were the swimming pool and ponds between the hotel and beach, which are the star of the resort.

The ponds have waterfalls, koi fish, and flamingos.

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Waterfall into koi pond
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Pink flamingos

The all-ages pool has a volleyball net, waterfall, basketball net, balls floating around, a water slide, and turns blue at night.

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Volleyball net, free balls are floating around
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Shot of the Ocean Tower from the Pool
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View of the Waterslide
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Basketball hoop


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Blue pool at night


Above the main pool is an adults-only pool and hot tub open until 10 PM. I never spent more than half an hour at a time in the pool area, but I really enjoyed it because I like pool games like basketball and volleyball.

The free poolside chairs, some of which had some shade, filled up very quickly. Renting a gazebo or caban is ludicrously expensive.

Screen Shot 2015-04-20 at 4.14.33 AM


Ka’anapali Beach is stunning and has views of Molokai and Lanai.

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Molokai in the distance


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Lanai in the distance

Two chairs and an umbrella is $45 per day. I’d recommend a towel instead.

My favorite part of the beach is at the very end in front of the Sheraton, a rocky outcropping called Blackrock. Every day dozens of people ignore the “Don’t Walk Past This Sign” signs and jump from the 20 foot rock. Every day at a sunset, a local guy paid by the Sheraton comes out and does a swan dive. Some days he even does other tricks like flips and handstand jumps.

The snorkeling especially near Blackrock must be pretty good as there is a steady stream of people out there. I saw several turtles from the rock and one dolphin.


I got burgers to go both nights from Relish. At about $20 after tip, they were fine. Next door is Whaler’s Village, which has a food court including pizza, Mexican, plate lunch, and Subway. There are several beach front dining options, but they were out of my price range.


Here’s a map I made for my review of the Andaz Maui at Wailea. Ka’anapali is just north of the underlined Lahaina on the northwest coast.

Screen Shot 2014-02-12 at 12.56.41 PM

The Westin Maui is 39 minutes from Kahului Airport and 8 minutes from West Maui Airport. I consider Ka’anapali’s location a little better than Wailea’s. Both are about the same distance from the airport, Haleakala, and start of the Road to Hana.

Ka’anapali is right next to Lahaina, which is a nice little town on Maui, so I give it a slight edge.


I definitely am happy with my 12,000 points per night redemption to stay at the Westin Maui.

Ka’anapali Beach, the pools, and the service were highlights.

I would have liked to have stayed on a higher floor and gotten out of that resort charge, but I wouldn’t hesitate to go back.

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Monday I flew Allegiant Air in a Giant Seat, one of their First Class-sized seats up front, from Los Angeles to Honolulu.

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Allegiant Air is a Las-Vegas-based low-cost carrier that survives by selling bundled hotel-air-entertainment packages, charging a fee for almost everything, and keeping its costs low.

It was a First Class-sized seat at an economy-class price. Was it worth flying a budget-carrier with no frequent flyer program just to save a few bucks and get a bigger seat?

  • How was the check-in, security, boarding, food, and service with Allegiant?
  • What perks came with a Giant Seat?
  • Which Giant Seat should you choose (they have different leg room and recline)?


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Last week, I did a 2 day/1 night hike on the Great Wall of China near Beijing that included 10 miles of hiking on the Wall, several meals, transportation, lodging, and a massage. My brother and I paid $370 per person.

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Hiking the Great Wall was one of my best travel experiences ever. The history, the scenery, the outdoor exercise, and spending time with my brother were a potent combination.

I went with Great Wall Hiking (which gave me no discount and doesn’t know I’m writing this review), and I enjoyed the tour immensely. I wish it had been cheaper, and there may be similar options out there that are cheaper. I’ll give my experiences to help you plan your Great Wall adventure if you head to Beijing. (See also How the 72 Hour Transit Without Visa Works in Beijing, China and Award Space Home from the Great Wall.)

  • What was the itinerary?
  • How was the service?


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I just arrived in Los Angeles after 10 hours flying Asiana First Class on its brand new A380. I booked my seat last month for 70,000 United miles (at pre-devaluation prices using this trick.)

This is a really important trip report because Asiana First Class is a true luxury product that is extremely easy to book with miles!

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Champagne wishes & caviar realities in Asiana First

Award space on the Asiana A380 is wide open in Business Class and First Class between Los Angeles and Seoul, especially at the last minute. Here’s a search for 4 passengers between Seoul and Los Angeles for the next two months. The blue and green days all have award space in Business or First Class or both for 4 passengers on the same flight.

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This flight has 4+ Business Class and 4+ First Class award seats on the same Asiana A380.

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I very much enjoyed my Asiana First Class experience, though there are some things the airline can improve.

  • How was the seat, bed, food, service, lounge, and airport experience?

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